Day 15 - Diamond Beach

 This morning we set the alarm for 6am as we wanted to be at Diamond beach for sunrise.  The weather was super cold, windy, minus 6 feels like minus 12, but clear skies were predicted and we haven’t yet had decent weather for a sunrise.  We woke earlier than the alarm, about 5am, having both slept like absolute logs after the slog to Svartifoss during the day.  We figured we might as well get on the road, so we set off just as the 6am alarm started to ding.  It’s about an hours drive to Diamond Beach, so named for the chunks of ice that float down from the Jokulsarlon Glacier and wash up on the shore.  We waited in the van for a bit, it was perishing cold outside, but eventually the sun showed itself, and we headed down to the beach in search of diamonds.  

Diamond beach

Diamonds on the beach


There were some big chunks of ice, not nearly as many as I have seen in some photos, but I had wondered if there would be many given we’re heading into winter and less ice would be breaking off the glacier face.  The sun never really came out completely to make the ice pop, as it was cloudy, but I think I got some nice shots of the waves crashing against the ice. 

We went to the glacier just across the road for a look-see.  Big chunks of ice broken off the glacier and floating on the lagoon.

Glacier lagoon


By the time we were done it was about 8.30, and too early to go to Mulagljufur canyon, we were a bit concerned about icy conditions, so we thought we’d drive back towards our campsite to a café we had seen yesterday.  The café was closed – sigh – didn’t open until 10am, so we decided to go back even further to the next café, both forgetting that it was almost completely back to where we started.  And …..the café wasn’t open until 11am.  It was about 9.30 by now.  The gas station/shop was open though, so we each got a hotdog and a coffee and that warmed us sufficiently to feel we could tackle the canyon.  So back we drove, our 5th excursion down this road.  We stopped at the Hofskirkja turf church, rather quaint made more interesting by the burial mounds.

Next stop was a small canyon near the Foss Hotel that we had spotted from the road, and I sent the drone in for a look-see.  Much easier than walking 😊

Finally we got to Mulagljufur canyon, ditched most of our camera gear and set off.  It was a bit of a slog up very icy paths and we both wiped out a number of times.  The weather was fab, sunny, clear and with no wind – very rare so far on our trip.  Other more sensible people had worn crampons, a very good idea.  We managed by skidding on our bum in some places, it was just too icy to risk wiping out and sliding in unexpected directions.  

Ice ice baby


We walked for about an hour and a half til we were very near the top, but then it got even more icy and even more steep, so once again I let the drone do the work and sent it for a look-see.  We got quickly got quite cold standing still, so as soon as I landed the drone we headed back down again, once more using the slide on your arse technique that I’m sure mountaineers would envy.  The walk was 4km 2hr 22minutes in total, and I got back to the van in a lather of sweat, and my knees and feet complaining bitterly at being put to work. 

Onwards to the next destination, which was Hofn, a small town of about 2000 people in the south east of Iceland.  We needed fuel for the van and groceries for meals for the next few days.  What a stunning place.  It’s a harbour, surrounded by mountains and glaciers, and with no wind, the calm water made for beautiful reflections.  I could happily live with these views.  

Hofn


We stocked up on groceries from a very well stocked supermarket, filled the van with diesel and headed to our campsite for the night.  We are staying at Vestrahorn campsite, hoping to catch sunrise on the Vestrhorn mountains tomorrow morning.  

Vestrahorn


Snow is predicted, and the water immediately in front of the mountains is frozen over, so no reflections for us.  The weather forecast is saying snow from 7am.

We are toasty warm in the van, it has a very efficient heater so we crank it up during the evening and turn it off before we sleep, else we’d end up roasted.  Last night was the coldest we’ve had so far, and I sill managed to wake warm in my sleeping bag (admittedly rated to -22) in the morning.  The difficult part is getting up to go out to the loo.  Brrrr.

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